What Order Do I Apply My Skin Care Products?

Your most asked question is answered......

What Order Do I Apply My Skin Care Products?

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Does sequence matter?

Yes, it does! Applying products in the proper order ensures that each product builds on the other increasing your skin regimen results. 

The skin is the largest organ of the body. Its job is to keep things out, but when it comes to skincare, we want things to penetrate in. Each skincare product applied on the skin affects this. 

How should I layer my products?

Overall, when applying skincare products the general rule of thumb is thin-to-thick. Applying those products with the highest ingredients first helps the skin absorb those nutrients before laying on the thicker, "heavy" guns so to speak. For example, products such as serums are usually filled with anti-aging and anti-oxidant properties, which we want to penetrate the skin would go on before a heavy moisturizer which will sit on top of your skin. 

Let's dive in a little deeper, keep reading below...

Your Skin Care Regimen!

How does it differ in the Morning vs. Night?

Daytime routine is about protection from the sun, pollution and the elements. Night time routine is about using products that "work while you sleep," such as retinols and growth factors. 

STEP 1: CLEAN AM & PM

In the morning, start by splashing your face with warm water and wash with a cleanser designed for your skin type. If your skin is sensitive or dry, try a gentle cleanser that is soothing. iS Clinical Cleansing Complex is great for all skin types and has soothing ingredients to leave your skin glowing. 

The WORST thing you can do for your skin is go to sleep at night without washing your face. That by itself will age you by 7 years. At night, the goal is to get rid of the day’s dirt, oil and makeup. Some skin experts recommend removing your makeup first with a dedicated makeup remover before washing your face with a gentle cleanser. Better yet, try "double cleansing," which is using a cleansing oil first to dissolve your makeup and then washing your face again with your regular cleanser. Our iS Clinical Cleansing Complex does both! It is both a make-up remover and a gentle cleanser. It is two steps in one!

TIP: If you’re using a physical exfoliant, like a facial scrub, use it in place of your cleanser after removing your makeup. ZO Skin Exfoliating Cleanser is great for this!

STEP 2: TONE AM & PM

Most people choose to skip toners, partly because there’s a lingering assumption that most toners are harsh and irritate the skin. Fortunately, that’s not the case anymore. While they don’t physically “shrink” pores, the new breed of toners can serve multiple purposes, like act as a delivery system for antioxidants, vitamin B derivatives and even toning acids.

Toners help absorb any excess oils on the skin to aid in the delivery of serums and lotions. Additionally, each type of toner is intended for a different skin issue, so it’s important to use the right kind for your skin concern. Try our ZO Skin Complexion Renewal Pads or PCA Skin Nutrient Toner to aid in removing excess oils and soothes the skin. They contain ingredients like glycolic acid which aids in skin exfoliation and a botanical blend to help soothe, reduce redness, and give antioxidants to the skin. 

**Use toners in the morning & night after you wash your face.**

STEP 3: Exfoliate AM or PM

Daily exfoliation of the skin is vital to achieving that glow! Our skin naturally sheds dead skin cells through a process called desquamation. A new skin cell is "born" in the stratum germinativum, that is the deepest layer of the epidermis (top layer). How quickly the skin sheds the dead skin cells and creates new cells is our Cell Turnover. The rate at which your skin does that depends on your age; it can take 28 days to 90 days. 

Performing daily exfoliating of your skin aids in removing the dead skin cells and unclogging pores. It only should be performed ONCE a day as more often than that can actually irritate the skin. My favorite exfoliator is our ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish! It's ingredients are ultra-fine Magnesium crystals, Vit A, C, and E for anti-oxidant delivery. Magnesium crystals exfoliate dead skin cells to create a clear, smooth and even toned complexion. Use this in your shower morning or night and it will leave your skin glowing! Plus, it smells heavenly!!!

STEP 4: Treatment Serums AM & PM

Serums are super-concentrated, nutrient-dense treatments that address specific concerns, so it’s better to keep them as close to the skin as possible. This is why it's great to apply them after exfoliating or toning since the skin is clean from oil/dead skin cells. Antioxidant serums provide a variety of benefits—from blunting your skin’s inflammatory response to neutralizing damage from UV rays and environmental pollutants. 

For the morning regimen, you want to pick a serum that is targeted at your skin type and what you want to improve. If you have pigmentation, apply serums with Vit C or kojic acid. For anti-aging, look for serums or moisturizers infused with peptides, growth factors and other biologically active ingredients. PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Serum and ZO Skin Growth Factor are both amazing. They can be used both in the am and at bedtime. 

Like the rest of the body, skin does the bulk of its repairing, restoring and regenerating as we sleep. This is why most targeted skin care treatments—like prescription meds (tretinoin, acne and rosacea creams), retinol creams, exfoliating treatments (peel pads and masks) and anti-aging serums are recommended at night. One of my favorite retinols is the ZO Skin Radical Night Repair. It works for all skin types to improve pigmentation, uneven texture, acne, and aging. Another favorite of mine that does multiple things at once is the iS Clinical Active SerumIt is anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and helps even skin tone. It is great for the 20 year old struggling with adult acne who also is having to fight the anti-aging battle. As well as, the 50 year old with uneven, dull, aging skin who is searching for that glow again. You will see quick results with the Active Serum. These serums go on LAST though for your evening routine!

STEP 5: EYE CREAM AM & PM

According to Dr. Annie Chiu, a board-certified dermatologist, it’s vital to apply an eye cream at least every night—if not twice a day—starting in your 20s. “It’s about maintaining the health and thickness of the eyelid skin. Improving the skin quality in this area early on ensures that the eyelid skin does not easily lose laxity and its smooth appearance later on.”

For best results, consistency is key. Application daily of eye creams will aid in keeping the elasticity of your eyelids and improve/prevent fine lines or collagen loss.

The iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex targets fine lines, loss of elasticity, hydration and brightens the undereye as well. It is clinically proven to target visual areas of concern and, as a result, skin looks firmer and more resilient. It contains powerful peptides, key growth factors, and potent antioxidants to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and visibly brighten the under-eye area to keep skin smooth, hydrated and protected all day long. A good tip is apply your eye cream around your mouth and lips. It will help also with the stubborn wrinkles that can form around the mouth as we age. 

STEP 6: MOISTURIZER AM & PM

Yes, everyone needs a moisturizer, even if you have oily skin. Moisturizers aid in providing our skin extra hydration at times harsh outside conditions that the sun, weather, or chemicals can cause. 

Most experts recommend that the best time to apply a moisturizer is while the skin is still damp, so the sooner you go through applying your serum and treatment, the sooner you’re able to lock in much-needed hydration with your moisturizer.

Some people use the same moisturizer for day and night which is totally fine. However, night moisturizers or night creams are generally thicker and heavier and designed to be absorbed over the course of several hours.

Our ZO Renewal Creme is a daily moisturizer that supports moisture levels in the skin and soothes the skin minimizing visible redness. It can be used in the morning and at night. 

At times though your night moisturizer should be a "thicker" or "heavier" one. Heavier moisturizer are great for dry skin types or during the fall/winter months when our skin loses moisture from the weather conditions. Thick moisturizers create a coating on the skin to prevent water evaporation while you sleep locking in moisture. 

STEP 7: SUNBLOCK AM

Sunscreen is the last step in your morning regimen and one of the most important ones. Applying sunblock to your face, neck and decolletage daily is your best "anti-aging" step! Sun damage is one of the many causes of uneven skin tones, wrinkles, dry/dull skin and daily sun cream helps to prevent those effects. Sunscreen protects your skin against the sun's broad spectrum of harmful UV rays and not to mention skin cancer. 

iS Clinical Extreme Protect SPF 30 provides extraordinary protection by combining broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection and powerful antioxidants to mitigate oxidative solar damage. It is very hydrating as well and can be used as a moisturizer as well. 

The ZO Sunscreen & Primer SPF30 is a non-greasy, quick-drying sunscreen with a sheer matte finish offering broad-spectrum protection against UVA, UVB rays. Natural melanin shields skin from aging effects of high-energy visible (HEV) light. It has a sheer tint so can be used alone or worn under makeup. One of my favorite things about this sunscreen is it's ZOX12® Engineered technology. It is an exclusive 12-hour, time-release ZOX12® antioxidant complex that guards against photodamage. This sunscreen helps provide daily multi-defense protection from UVA, UVB, high-energy visible (HEV) light and harmful infrared (IR-A) rays.

Putting It All Together

Morning Regimen 

Step 1: Clean 

Step 2: Tone

Step 3: Exfoliate (am or pm)

Step 4: Treatment Serum

Step 5: Eye Cream 

Step 6: Moisturizer 

Step 7: Sunscreen

Step 8: Make-up

Evening Regimen

Step 1: Clean

Step 2: Tone

Step 3: Exfoliate (am or pm)

Step 4: Eye Cream

Step 5: Moisturizer/serum

Step 6: Retinol/Growth Factor

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Between you and me....

Most of my patients who come in for skin care have not had a consistent skin care regimen in the past. My main focus is to help you with that! So whatever will help you be compliant is my main goal. I love all the skin brands mentioned above, but if you can't do 7 steps in the morning, then lets condense it to 4 or 5. Some of the products are multi-functional and can be used for more than one target on the skin. If you are someone that barely wakes up in the morning with enough time to wash your face and put on make-up a 7 to 8 step morning regimen is probably not realistic and that's okay! No need to get overwhelmed. My job is to work with you in finding a regimen that you love for your skin and will do EVERYDAY. 

If you can stick to a 7-8 step regimen, amazing! Consistency and compliance is the most important thing for your own personalized skin care routine. 

Finally, listen to your skin! When you start a new skin care regimen some reaction is normal and expected. If it continues for longer than 1 month, not normal. You're skin is unique to you and no one else has it. So, no matter what I or anyone else says it is important to find what works for you so always be HONEST with me! 

Those of you who know me by now, you know I like to know all things...the good...the bad...and the ugly!

Hope you enjoyed this newsletter/blog about skin care. I will be starting a skin care series diving deeper into sunblocks, retinols, growth serums, peels, etc. If there is a specific skin care question or topic you would like covered, feel free to call us 210-622-2334 or send me a message via email at contact@julesmedspa.com.

Shakira Cabrera